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Patina for that Authentic Aged Paint Effect!!

Updated: Oct 3


AJ here and I cannot wait to show you how I use paint and chemistry to achieve naturally-aged looks that would take decades to develop.  You know that rusty and crusty look on old tools?  That verdigris you see on copper clocktowers and antique architecture? 


Well, you can achieve that same look with just a few products and techniques that I am going to share with you here.


Hope you love creating with the Patina Line as much as I do!


 


Check out the Product List below, find something you want to age and let's get started. 


Product List:


Click here to check out with my Affiliate Link:

 

White Lightening for cleaning your project piece.


Prime Start for metal objects.  Otherwise,  Bonding Boss when needed.


Choice of Chalk Mineral Paint as a Base.  I used Prime Start and wanted the option of the orange to show through.


Patina Paint in Iron, Copper and/or Bronze. I used Iron and Bronze. 


Patina Activator Spray in Green, Blue and / or Yellow. I used all three.


Black Gilding Wax

 

Choice of Sealer.  I used Satin Clear Coat followed by Gator Hide.


Chip Brushes


Gloves


Paper Towels / Baby Wipes


 

"Let's Get Started!"


Now, you do not need all three Patina Paints and all three Patina Activator Sprays.  But you do need to remember one thing:   If  you want a rust effect, the only way you will get that is by using the Iron Patina Paint with the Green Activator Spray.  That is the only combo to get that true rust effect and it is so worth it! 


So, a quick run through:

 

Iron plus Green Spray equals Rust!


Copper and Bronze activate with both green and blue sprays to give you variations of aged verdigris.


The Yellow Spray is a fun addition to any of the Patina Paints for a yellow effect.




 










Now you will see that I love to layer the various patina effects to reach that authentically aged look.

 

I started with this metal fish décor from the thrift store.  I gave  him a cleaning with White Lightening, my preferred way to start the prep process of any project.  Once I cleaned the fish, I rinsed it well to make sure there was no cleaning residue.  No scaling needed!


"But first, Prime Start!"


Since I am using Patina on metal, I first gave it two coats of Prime Start, which is a rust inhibitor.  This will ensure that the patina rust process will not eat away at the metal over time.   Instead, it is now protected so will show all that beautiful rust, but the metal will not be damaged as the patina process continues over time.


Prime Start does have an odor so I always wear gloves and use it in a well-ventilated area.  I prefer to use it outdoors so there is not a build up of fumes.  It is safe to use, but you do want to take these precautions.


Since I want the option of the orange to show through, I am going to apply the Patina Paints over Prime Start. Normally, I will use two coats of Chalk Mineral Paint in either a coordinating color or in a color I want to show through.




 

"The Patina of it all!"


Let's go over how this paint works. The paint has metal shavings in it which is part of the two-step process needed to create the aged looks.   So I stir each container really well, making sure to stir the bottom up and over to mix any metal shavings that may have settled back into the suspension of the paint.


Now I am going to use disposable chip brushes to apply the paint as this is not something you want to rinse down your drains.  I have a chip brush for each Patina color and spray and start dabbing and bushing the paint across the scales and head.

 

Once this coat is dry, now I am going in for a second coat.   This is when I am a little more careful with time because I know that I must use the activator spray while the paint is wet.  The spray is the second part of the process.   When the metal shavings in the paint is activated by the spray, chemistry  takes over and the Patina Process begins.


Make sure and close up the Patina Paint before you start spraying / applying the Activator Sprays. If the spray makes it way into the jar of paint, it will actually activate the paint.


For this project, I dispensed some spray into separate containers and used a chip brush for each spray to dab and apply the liquid to the wet paint.

 

I do wear gloves to protect my hands - and my manicure!


While the Patina starts to develop, check out this fun Reel of the final result:



 

"A few key points"


One thing I have learned is that Iron and Green Activator Spray do not like to be watched.   I spray and walk away.   Sometimes, it can take 12 hours to start developing so I never worry when I see the Bronze and Copper start to age and the Iron has not yet started.


I let the Patina dry overnight and am greeted with a new-old fish.  What was once new metal now looks like it lives in the depths of the ocean.  I add a little black gilding wax as another layer of dimension and to tone down some of the orange.


A coat of Satin Clear Coat followed by a coat of Gator Hide is my preferred sealer for Patina but you can use any of the Clear Coats or Patina Guard, which is made specifically for the Patina Line.


I am so happy with how this project developed!  I can always rely on the consistent quality of Dixie Belle Paint products!


This little fishy now looks like the King Fish of the sea!



 


You can watch my entire LIVE video from the Dixie Belle Paint Company main Facebook page here:



Until next time, Happy Creating!!


Hugs,

AJ


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